Bangkok

     Go ahead, curb your anticipation, it is time for Thailand Part 2: Bangkok!  After waking up at five in the morning to catch a ferry to the mainland, I hopped on a bus to the Surat Thani Airport.  I enjoyed a Thai iced coffee (regular iced coffee only with condensed milk as a substitute for both milk and sweetener) and sent an email to my closest informing them that I was alive and well.  At this point I was complacent that I had been so effective in traveling and this sentiment would carry on for the duration of my trip. 

     After a quick flight I found myself in the same spot that just a little more than a week ago had caused me utter panic; organizing a cab into the city of Bangkok.  I knew my destination and luckily, so do most people that live in/have ever been to Bangkok.  One quick interaction landed me in the front seat of a pink mid-2000’s Toyota Corolla, weaving in and out of Phahonyothin Road’s (Bangkok’s super highway) unmarked lanes.  My destination was the famed Khao san Road and I was arriving two days ahead of the commencement of a four-day countrywide water fight celebrating Thailand’s New Year.

Creepin' on ze crepes.

     On a normal night the sun sets on Bangkok and Khao san road becomes inundated Westerners as vendors of every good imaginable call out to attract costumers.  After a week of lazily enjoying my heliotherapy on Haad Sadet’s isolated beach I was shocked at how packed Khao san road was.  The moment I set foot on Khao san road’s dusty crumbling pavement I was engulfed in the loud banter of people whom seemed to be competing for who the honors of loudest conversationalist.  My senses were attacked from every angle; streamers flapped just a few feet over my head while the rising aroma of frying pad Thai attacked my nostrils from below.  Throngs of all nationalities hustled around me and in that moment I knew I had arrived back to the chaos that is Bangkok. 

     With none of the Gulf of Thailand’s surf to cool down with I meandered through the open-air market with my pack on my back, sweat dripping down to, then off of, my extremities.  I was bombarded by propositions from locals peddling their low-priced wares.  The Rikka Inn was my destination, but I had no idea what the hotel looked like so I wandered down the street looking about like a young boy frantically scrambling through his first copy of SI’s swimsuit edition.  The sights and sounds and smells were urging me to take a load off and look around, but I denied my urge to become immersed in anything except finding my hotel.  My long day of traveling was wearing on me and I wanted to put my stuff away and explore the road thoroughly. 

     By the time I had checked into my hotel my stomach felt like had begun to eat itself so I ventured back into the chaotic market of Khao san road for seafood and Chang.

     I had two days of exploring Bangkok before Songkran's outbreak of celebratory madness and I made the most out of both of them.  The first day I took a foot tour of the city’s famed attractions, the majority of which were Buddhist temples (Wats) and shrines.  I found myself thinking often about the Thai and their obvious dedication to Buddhism.  Everywhere I went, aside from the full moon party, there were monks.  I also noticed that everywhere I went there was a promiscuous air, oozing sexuality. 

      Once the sun set upon Bangkok, women of the night called to passers from barstools openly and often.  Ladyboys squeaked at each other in high heels and dresses short enough to make the Spice Girls (I grew up in the 90's, what do you expect?) look like nuns.   The monks never paid any heed to the glaringly obvious lechery that surrounded them and yet these deeply contrasting lifestyles offer two of Thai culture’s most recognizable characteristics; widespread Buddhism and the sexual freedom that the country offers. 

     I found it vexing that Buddhism, a scrupulous religion to say the least, could thrive in such a sexually liberal country.  Now, I know I am talking about extreme examples here and it goes without saying that Thailand isn’t only known for these two aspects, but I found myself being reminded of this gap everywhere I looked as I wandered Bangkok.  It seemed to me that Bangkok has two sides to it catering to two very, very different crowds.

     In the daytime the streets bustle with restrained action as Hawaiian-shirt clad tourists from all over the world roam the streets, their maps upside down, their pockets growing skinnier with every footstep.  When these zinc-crusted foreigners have finished their tours and the clock strikes 9 the city capitulates to the utter chaos of the evening.  I'm close to positive I never saw a monk out past the stroke of 9 in my entire trip.  There is much indifference between these different lifestyles, yet they coexist in such close proximity.

Phol drove me all around Bangkok for less than 1 dollar.  He then dropped
 me off in a suit shop and wouldn't let me leave until I heard the full pitch.

     I suppose that in the eye of tourists, acceptance is one of the prevalent allures of the nation.  Thailand is the land of smiles for that very reason, the culture welcomes any and all.  Freak or conservative, anarchist or weekend warrior, in Thailand you are who you are and you will be greeted with a warm smile regardless.  No matter who you are or what your values are, there is something for you in Thailand. 

     I had previously mentioned grouping my posts by location, but I’m going to reorganize this structure due to the drenched memories of Songkran inundating my brain at the moment.  That being said, get excited; up next is Songkran, the world’s largest water fight.

The flowing robes, grace, bald... Striking.  Really.

Giant Buddha

A shrine to Thailand's king; Rama XI